I don't disagree with him.
While it is unfair that to expect reviewers to complete games in short spans of time, I don't think that blame lies with the publishers or developers, but the way the video game journalism industry functions.
Game makers don't owe reviewers anything. With leaks and piracy such a huge problem, I don't think they are too enthusiastic about distributing very early review copies.
It is the gaming public that demands reviews so quickly (which is their right.)
EDIT: If your game has a twist half way through or near the end or otherwise takes a drastic turn, I think its up to developers to make this known to reviewers and possibly supply save games so they can jump to that place in the game.
If I made a game, which I felt had some artistic merit, I wouldn't want a reviewer to skip to the middle to facilitate his review. As Cobra said, the blame lies with the employers. Though I guess I am not sure if I can blame them either. The whole thing is so damn cutthroat, that employers have to push their reviewers to survive.
In the end, I am not sure I can blame anyone.
The situation isn't the same for every game though. It took me 15 hours of Blood Rayne to realize where it was heading. Actually, it took me 1 hour, but I played through 15 just to make sure.