Author Topic: Wet shaving  (Read 3430 times)

Offline K-man

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Wet shaving
« on: Sunday, December 29, 2013, 09:01:26 AM »
Scary brought up DE shaving the other day in IRC.  I gave him some good starting points, but figured I'd post here in case any of you were interested.

Most people our age have probably never picked up a double edged safety razor, much less used one.  Our generation was brought up on the "Mach 3" standard and the thought that more blades = better.  If you're like me, you probably kept blade cartridges way beyond their intended usefulness solely because they were so expensive.  They are also uncomfortable, oftentimes creating skin conditions due to the harshness of scraping 8 blades against your face at once  "Traditional" wet shaving solves problems you didn't even realize you had.

Years ago I bought a boar shaving brush and some mug soap to shave with as a novelty.  Fast forward to roughly 2007 when my mother found an old Gillette fat boy razor at a yard sale.  I cleaned/refurbished it into something useful and decided to give DE shaving a try.  I've been doing it ever since.  Here's a handful of reasons why:

1) It's very economical, especially compared to buying cartridges.  I purchased a 100 pack of Astra blades back in 2008 for 11 dollars and I am still working on them.  There can be some significant up-front cost, especially if you like it enough to want to buy "good" equipment.

2) It's a more comfortable shave.  Once you get some basic techniques down you'll find that the shave is much more pleasurable than whatever Gillette is trying to peddle this week.

3) It sort of makes shaving fun.  There's a process, a ritual even, to doing it.

I'm going to lay out sort of a beginners guide to accumulating equipment and technique.

I am reluctant to recommend that you get great equipment up front.  On one hand, buying cheaper equipment means you won't have as much invested if you decide you don't like DE shaving.  On the other hand, going into it with inferior equipment may sour you on the process.  Obtaining a DE razor should be relatively simple.  You can find them at garage sales, thrift stores, tucked away somewhere in your father's things, etc etc.  There were a ton of these things made in all sorts of different designs and models.  In fact they were about as common then as the Mach 3 variety is now.  My mother found my Gillette fat boy at a yard sale for a dollar.  Just make sure that mechanically it functions correctly.  Make sure both sides of the shaving edge are even.  I had a razor with a bent head one time and kept wondering why I got awful razor burn while using it.  You can also resort to places like eBay to purchase a vintage razor, but you will likely pay a premium.  If you're going to do that, you might as well run to Amazon or a supply store and purchase a brand new Merkur razor.

The art of manliness has a guide to refurbishing razors that is somewhat useful, but I'd add a few steps:  http://www.artofmanliness.com/2010/08/19/how-to-buy-and-restore-vintage-shaving-gear/

They cover cleaning it up pretty well.  I'd add that if there's a bunch of calcification/corrosion that a bath in CLR helps to remove most all of it.  After cleaning, a complete soak in mineral oil for half an hour or so would be very beneficial to lubricate any moving parts.  you can use a tumbler filled with mineral oil.  I used some old crystal light containers and kept CLR and mineral oil in them at all times, just in case I came across any new treasures to refurbish.  If your razor is all metal, and not gold plated, you can boil it to sterilize rather than invest in barber disinfectant.  You could also soak in alcohol before the mineral oil bath.

You have two options with shaving brushes.  You can go "cheap" and buy a boar hair brush until you determine you like wet shaving or not.  They can be found most anywhere for 5-8 dollars.  On the other hand, you can invest a little more into a badger brush and have a much better experience.  This seems to be a consensus good "starter" badger brush:  http://www.amazon.com/Tweezerman-2801-h-Mens-Shaving-Brush/dp/B000G647Y8 .  If you're going to get a boar brush just go to the local pharmacy and pick up their brand.  most of the cheap ones are all the same.

Once you decide to stick with it, you can invest a little more into a very nice badger brush.  I spent 100 dollars on a Rooney silver tip badger brush.  The difference in it and the boar brush I was using was night and day.  Lather exploded out of the badger brush.  If you invest any significant money into a brush, do yourself a favor and get a stand for it.  The brush needs to be stored with the bristles facing down to avoid breakage, mold, etc etc.  You will also need a bowl to lather up in.  I have a smaller pottery bowl that I use for soap or cream.  

The next thing you'll need is either cream or soap.  You can find Williams mug soap at any pharmacy or places like Wal Mart.  Last time I bought a cake it was maybe a dollar.  This soap is OK, and I still shave with it occasionally.  Cream is a bit harder to find as it is not something generally carried in stores any more.  Bath and Body Works stocks rebranded Proraso cream under the CO Bigelow name.  It is in a green tube and retails for 9.99.  Sometimes you can get in on 3 for 2 deals to lower the price.  It is probably the most obtainable cream in a B&M right now, especially for those of us who don't live in a city environment where the choice is bountiful.  Cream/soap is mainly a personal preference.  And really the only way to determine what works for you is to try it.

Technique is important.  Two of the most helpful things when I started out was Mantic's youtube channel and Leisureguy's "Guide to Gourmet Shaving"

Free pdf of Leisureguy's book available here:  http://www.scribd.com/doc/112156469/Leisureguy-s-Guide-to-Gourmet-Shaving-Ham-Michael

http://www.youtube.com/user/mantic59 is Mantic's youtube channel.

There are a few good forums dedicated to wet shaving and other gentlemanly stuff.  www.shavemyface.com and www.badgerandblade.com .  Both are a great resource and full of very helpful people.  But these guys take it to 11.  I'm talking owning hundreds of razors/brushes and doing full bathroom remodels to make a "shave den".  

Also I bought my "good" supplies from this guy www.vintagebladesllc.com .  He even included a hand-written "thank you" letter with my purchase, which is unheard of in this day and age.

Watch Mantic's intro videos first.  They are extremely informative and will get you off on the right foot.

That's all I can think of for now.  I'll add to the original post as I think of more useful things to add.  I also welcome questions.

Edit #1:  Something I forgot to mention.  BUY A BLADE SAMPLER.  Blades react differently to different faces.  A blade that works for someone doesn't necessarily work for someone else.  get a sampler of 10-15 and pick the one that works for you.  This is imperative.
« Last Edit: Sunday, December 29, 2013, 08:31:38 PM by K-man »

Offline ScaryTooth

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Re: Wet shaving
« Reply #1 on: Sunday, December 29, 2013, 10:46:52 AM »
Sweet, thanks kman.

I brought all this up because last Thursday I was shaving with my usual disposable Bic razor, and it was garbage. I cut my neck all up, and the blade was just ripping hair out of my face. I thought "There has to be a better way than this". Turns out, it is the general consensus that there is--wet shaving. So taking Kman's advice and doing a little research myself, I'm taking the dive.  Bought some decent middle of the road type gear to give it a go, which should arrive tomorrow. I haven't shaved since Thursday, so I have some growth going on, I shall report back with my results.

Offline scottws

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Re:
« Reply #2 on: Sunday, December 29, 2013, 06:37:25 PM »
My sister bought me a Merkur DE razor and badger brush last year for Christmas. I thought it was a weird gift at first but I gave it a try and have been using it ever since.

I buy all my materials from Amazon. I use the green Proraso shaving soap, Gillette 7 O'clock blades, and the green Proraso aftershave.

I use the Gillette blades because all indications is that they are in between Merkur and Feather blades, and many people complained about how dull the Merkur blades are and how Feather blades were too sharp and cause razor burn. I've been happy with the Gillette blades.

How have 100 blades lasted since 2008? I can't go more than a week on any one blade or I start getting bad shaves.

I've noticed a few things about DE shaving:

1) It feels manly as hell.
2) It takes way longer than using something like a Gillette Fusion and canned foam.
3) I get a much closer shave with the DE razor than the Fusion.
4) I definitely have to use aftershave with the DE razor or I can feel the burn. I never used aftershave before, but that's OK because I like it and wearing aftershave also feels pretty manly.

Offline K-man

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Re: Wet shaving
« Reply #3 on: Sunday, December 29, 2013, 08:30:23 PM »
Scott, on average I will shave twice a week.  I don't necessarily have to come in clean shaven to my job.  Plus, I've been wearing a beard for the better part of a year now, so all I really have to shave currently is my neck.

Time is a consideration with DE shaving.  But I've managed to get it down to a point to where if I'm in a hurry I can do it roughly as fast as I could have with a Mach 3. 

I use aftershave every time.  I have a few old school scents I keep around for that very purpose.  I also use an alum block from time to time, especially when I have a nick or two to deal with.

One day I'm going to take that next step and look into straight razors.

Offline Cobra951

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Re: Wet shaving
« Reply #4 on: Monday, December 30, 2013, 08:21:30 AM »
I remember shaving with a blade, in a different century.  I've been using electric a long time.  When I saw the thread's title, my reaction was "what other type is there" with a blade?  Yeah, I used canned foam and a safety razor (with more blades creeping into the razor head over the years).  But I always had the water running, and the blade warmly drenched for each pass.  Dry blade shaving?  Yeouch!  :P

So this "DE" shaving is all the rage now?  News to me.  My routine is such a nonevent.  I buzz it after a shower, so all the oil is off my face, and that's it.  Close enough, and I'd have to do it again the next day regardless of shaving method, to look clean-shaven.  Anyone who wants it closer is going to have to pay for a barber.  :)

Offline scottws

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Re:
« Reply #5 on: Monday, December 30, 2013, 08:37:28 PM »
I had a Norelco electric. I'll never do electric again. It was not a close shave at all for me and my beard grows very fast. I had one o'clock shadow.

I also think the "wet shaving" description for shaving with a double-edge razor is strange. When I used the Fusion and foam, I always wet my face and the blade(s). I can't imagine what just shaving with the foam would be like. Maybe gel, but I didn't use that long because how much it cost and how fast I ran out compared to good 'ol Barbasol.

I don't know if I'd call DE shaving "all the rage". Other than myself, I didn't know anyone else that did it. A guy at work was familiar with the concept but that's it.

Offline Cobra951

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Re: Wet shaving
« Reply #6 on: Tuesday, December 31, 2013, 08:44:16 AM »
My Norelco has gotten bad.  I still use it for the trimmer and a quick pass of the rotary blades, but a newer Remington does a much better job on the face after that.  It's still not as close as a blade, but close enough.  Yeah, like I said before, I need to shave every day too when I have to look clean-shaven, so a blade buys me nothing but a few hours and a lot of tiny cuts.

I hadn't even heard the term "DE" until this thread.  Totally out of touch here.

Offline scottws

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Re:
« Reply #7 on: Wednesday, January 01, 2014, 05:52:06 AM »
I hadn't heard "DE" either. I just figured it was "double-edge" from the context and knew what he was talking about. I usually hear it referred to as "wet shaving" or the razor referred to as a "safety razor".

Offline ScaryTooth

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Re: Wet shaving
« Reply #8 on: Thursday, January 02, 2014, 06:06:17 PM »
So, just to report back. I've shaved twice so far with my DE razor, and I have to say that it's really nice. It's definitely the closest, most comfortable shave I've ever had. It doesn't pull or tug, my skin isn't red or irritated. And it's also made shaving a little more enjoyable and something to look forward too, whereas before it felt like a pain in the ass chore. Pretty sure I'm going to stick with this method from here on out.

Offline K-man

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Re: Wet shaving
« Reply #9 on: Thursday, January 02, 2014, 09:28:48 PM »
Honestly can't imagine anyone ever wanting to go back.