Topic: Is anyone handy?

[scottws]

I need to replace the exterior exhaust vent for my dryer, and I've looked at replacement parts and guides online. The vents come with a piece of aluminum duct attached to them and this goes through the hole in the exterior of the home. The guides all say that you then attach the duct that comes from the dryer to this tube.

In my case, the ductwork for the dryer is inside a wall. I have no access on the inside except for where a port comes out of the wall for the dryer hookup. Anyone know how I can go about replacing this thing without tearing up the drywall and getting direct access to the duct? Another fun thing is that I'd have to move my water heater to do that, and it's actually on a shelf.

[K-man]

what's the distance between the hole inside and the exhaust port outside?  Might be able to snake it some way?

[Cobra951]

I may be missing something, but don't you need fittings specifically for a setup like yours?  Something to hook up outside, and something to hook up inside?  I'm sure you're not the only one with ductwork going through a sizeable wall.  Maybe a local hardware shop can help you get the right parts and tools.

[gpw11]

What floor is the dryer on? Chances are I can help you out here when I'm not on my phone.

[gpw11]

Also, if you post a pic of the duct connection on the interior wall it'll help

[scottws]

The dryer is in my garage (1st/ground floor). The connection, a sort of crimped metal circle, is at the bottom of the wall directly behind the dryer. That and the exhaust vent are all I can see of the ductwork. The exhaust vent is on the exterior of an adjacent wall about 10' high.

I don't have a picture right now, but I can get one later.

[gpw11]

I'm guessing you're looking at something like this (don't look at the article the picture is from, it's shit and misleading):




So, what do you have to replace?  The ducting connecting your dryer to the wall connection or the exterior exhaust hood (pictured below):




I'm guessing we're talking about the exterior portion.   I've never ever in my life seen the exterior exhaust come with the ducting actually attached - it's sold exactly like the picture above, and then you manually attach the ducting and run it to wherever you want.  That's good for you (probably) because all you have to do is get your ass up on a ladder, pull the screws on the existing duct, carefully work it out (it may be tinfoil taped and you'll probably have to cut some caulking or silicone), and put the new one in.  If possible, I always tinfoil tape my duct connections, but if you don't have access, don't worry about it - it's not the end of the world.   If you want, send me a picture of the exhaust vent on the exterior as well.

Does that make any sense?

[gpw11]

I just made this:




A, B, and C should all be independent pieces of ducting (at least, there may be more).   You should be able to replace A without having to open up any drywall.  I can't think of any reason ever why you'd need to replace B, so I don't think that's it. 

C will be made of either corrugated ducting (flexible, maybe can stretch), or rigid ducting - If it's corrugated, you will hopefully be able to pull the attached ducting out a bit when you remove the exhaust vent.  Undo the tape, tape on the new exhaust vent, push it all in the wall, and screw the vent onto the wall (hopefully the trim doesn't completely cover the outside flange of the vent). 

If C is made of rigid venting, you're not going to be able to tape it, so you just pull the vent (A) out (this might be difficult as you might have to break the seal on the existing tape) and push the new one in, and then secure the vent itself as above. 

[scottws]

I'm guessing you're looking at something like this (don't look at the article the picture is from, it's shit and misleading):

<snip!>

So, what do you have to replace?  The ducting connecting your dryer to the wall connection or the exterior exhaust hood (pictured below):

<snip!>

I'm guessing we're talking about the exterior portion.   I've never ever in my life seen the exterior exhaust come with the ducting actually attached - it's sold exactly like the picture above, and then you manually attach the ducting and run it to wherever you want.  That's good for you (probably) because all you have to do is get your ass up on a ladder, pull the screws on the existing duct, carefully work it out (it may be tinfoil taped and you'll probably have to cut some caulking or silicone), and put the new one in.  If possible, I always tinfoil tape my duct connections, but if you don't have access, don't worry about it - it's not the end of the world.   If you want, send me a picture of the exhaust vent on the exterior as well.

Does that make any sense?

The interior connection is very similar to your first image.  That is not what I have to replace.  I'm replacing the hood on the exterior because 1) it's got a couple cracks and I think water leaks into my wall when it rains really heavily and 2) the flap doesn't completely close and a bird is trying to live in it.

The exterior exhaust vent I bought at Lowe's is sort of like this.  I couldn't find the actual one I bought on Lowe's website.  Thinking I might not need the duct part and wanting a bird guard, I also bought this from Amazon yesterday.  That one doesn't appear to come with the ~1.5' (~45cm) of duct attached.

The problem I have is that the flat part of the exhaust hood is flat against the exterior wall (I'm assuming this is how it should be).  How am I supposed to get access to any kind of tape or clamp that might be inside the wall?  I'm not as concerned with taping the connection back up, but how do I remove it (if it is there)?

[scottws]

I just made this:

<snip!>

A, B, and C should all be independent pieces of ducting (at least, there may be more).   You should be able to replace A without having to open up any drywall.  I can't think of any reason ever why you'd need to replace B, so I don't think that's it. 

C will be made of either corrugated ducting (flexible, maybe can stretch), or rigid ducting - If it's corrugated, you will hopefully be able to pull the attached ducting out a bit when you remove the exhaust vent.  Undo the tape, tape on the new exhaust vent, push it all in the wall, and screw the vent onto the wall (hopefully the trim doesn't completely cover the outside flange of the vent). 

If C is made of rigid venting, you're not going to be able to tape it, so you just pull the vent (A) out (this might be difficult as you might have to break the seal on the existing tape) and push the new one in, and then secure the vent itself as above. 

imgur.com is blocked at work so I can't see your image right now.  I'll look when I get home.  And I'll see if I can get some pictures of the interior connection and external hood for you.

[gpw11]

Okay, don't worry about the pic from the interior in that case but the exterior hood would be helpful - what type of finish do you have on your house and how old is it?

I'd be amazed if anyone clamped that connection in the wall for two reasons:  1.) It's unnecessary, and 2.) It's dumb.   Usually the only time someone would clamp would be on the dryer itself or the exposed duct that the dryer duct connects to.   That said, cross your fingers that they didn't pull off a boneheaded move and screw through the ducting. 

This is one of those tough things because you don't know what they did until you get up on a ladder and try to pull that thing off.  Were I in your situation I'd get up there, maybe get someone to hold the ladder because you might have to struggle with that thing for a few minutes, pull the screws on the exterior flange and hope that a.) it isn't taped, or b.) it's a flex hose (and I fucking hate flex hoses).  If either of those is true it should just pull out.

Now, if it is taped, you may or may not have a problem.  Tin foil tape used for ducting is pretty weak but sticky.  It's really just meant to stop airflow so people often use it sparingly as well.   If you can't pull it out you'll have your best luck by twisting - if you can try to jiggle and rotate the duct hood enough you should eventually loosen it to the point where you can twist it and the tape will rip.  Probably.

Now, absolute worst case scenario - you can't get the old one off.  That's fine.  You should be able to buy something like this pest guard.   Basically a cage you install over your existing vent.  That doesn't solve the cracks, but you should be able to seal them with some heavy duty silicone or caulking while you're up there. 

[scottws]

Here is a picture of the hood I took a few days ago. Its from ground level; sorry, when I got home today it was dark.

The house is stucco on cinder block on the first floor, stucco on wood frame on the 2nd.  The house was built in 1982, but I don't know how old the stucco is. The paint is about 6 years old.

Thanks for the tips. I'll try that stuff this weekend.

[gpw11]

God damn stucco makes everything difficult.  Let me know how it went or if you have any more questions.   I deal with this sort of stuff a lot.

[idolminds]

[scottws]

Here is a better picture.

[gpw11]

Yeah, replace that sucker if you can.   You're going to have to cut some of the top layer of stucco that's over the flange but that should be okay (it also looks like it was just painted over).  Let me know how she goes.

[scottws]

Still waiting for the replacement hood. Sometimes I wonder why I pay for Amazon Prime. My stuff is never on time.